Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Noj Peb Caug (Eat 30) Xyoo Tsiab (New Year)















The Eat 30 Blog

Noj Peb Caug (Eat 30) Xyoo Tsiab (New Year)

Hmong New Year in the Hmong villages of Thailand can be 8 to 10 days depending on how much fun people are having. Each village has their own Nyob Zoo Xyoo Tshiab (Happy New Year) celebration.

It seems to be a bit much but if you think about how there is not much going on during the rest of the year for Hmong folks living in the villages, it's all farming and making money and then they finally can have their fun at the Hmong New Year.

I saw many beautiful Hmong outfits during the celebration walking on dirt roads with gust of dusts swirling around. They use tennis balls to ball toss and there were many places that sold nava, papaya salad, pho, meat on a stick and more. There was a mainstage where people performed paj huam and dance routines.

Oh yeah, the tennis balls are not sold for people to ball toss. I tried to buy one. The village leaders give out all the balls to toss and it is more of a controlled environment with encouragement, distance and rows. There are also Hmong elders that ball toss but they seem to stand farther away from each other and toss it higher. It seems like they are having more fun.

When it gets dark, they have performances on the mainstage that range from singing to dances mostly that's about it. I recorded many performances and thought about how these youth really enjoyed to perform but did not have teachers to help them, a performance space to practice or sponsorships from businesses. It is not the most quality performances but people really enjoyed themselves, its all they have all year and they make the most out of it.

I passed along a DVD of the Minnesota Hmong New Year celebration performances to the main organizer days later. Just about everyone in the village showed up and the event goes until about 11pm which is a big deal since it gets dark by 5pm and most people usually go to sleep around 8pm.

During the day, Fresh Traditions performed at The New Year Celebration in Huoi Kue. It was more appreciated by elders than the youth that were in attendance... arrrggghhhh. But people were captivated by a collaboration of Hip Hop and Kwv Txhiaj, younger and older generations that they have never seen before. And speaking of Hip Hop, it was the first time many people, young and old in the village were exposed to a Hip Hop performance.

I started off having the audience participate with me "When I say Nyob Xyoo, you say Xyoo Tshiab" (in Hmong). Most people participated. I told the audience to put thier hands in the the air from side to side (in Hmong). Like 5 people participated and 4 of them were Hmong elders... I had the audience clap with me to a beat, they were all off beat. We live in different rhythms. I don't think the audience is into Hip Hop music... yet. As usual G-dogg, Grandma Youa Chang stole the show and was admired by all the elders there. The Hmong University students are more knowledgable about Hip Hop and actually to add to that Hmong college students are more exposed to many things around the world when they are able to live outside of the village on the college level.

By the 7th and 8th day I was tired of the Hmong New Year, but people there were into it everyday! People would have two Hmong outfits and change back and forth for each day. People that did not wear Hmong outfits were said to dress like Thai people. In America when Hmong people do not dress in traditional Hmong wear they say we dress like Americans to the Hmong New Year.

The Hmong Thai International New Year

Held at "Pas Khib Nyiab" (Garbage Land) because the land used to be an area where all garbage is dumped on, but now it's been cleaned and remade into livable land with residents on it. Once a year it becomes like the Hmong State Fair. The reason that it is International is because Hmong musicians, dancers and singers from Laos, China and America come to Thailand to participate in the festivities.

4 Days of celebration. 2 stages with an outside movie theater. The main stage was huge. It was an incredible sight to see food, merchandise, product stands, huge games for kids, and carnival games all by Hmong folks. There was one carnival game that I was fond of where the participant had to toss a plastic basket onto a field of soda bottles and the objective is to cover the soda bottle. If you win than you get the soda bottle. Yaaay!

There was a couple of Hmong dance groups from Fresno, CA there. I spoke with them briefly and they are all in high school. The Hmong Lao Singers are the most successful at selling thier CDs and making music in Southeast Asia. Some say because thier music and Hmong pronounciation is not as influenced by the country they live in. And they just know how to hustle better than anyone else. There were hardly and Hmong American CDs for sale and I never heard of the Hmong American singers that were performing there.

I kind of understand now about the music in the Hmong language inluenced by the melodies of the country that the singer grew up it when I heard the Hmong Chinese singer. It sounded just like the Chinese songs except it was in Hmong but because I am not used to the melodies and style it was hard to catch the Hmong words as much so it was a bit wierd. But the voice was definately beautiful. I am referring to a former post where I had Hmong Thai listen to Hmong American songs and some of them reacted awkwardly to the songs even though it was in Hmong because of the unfimiliar melodies. But they felt the singers had nice voices.

I have never seen a Hmong concert with such a huge Hmong crowd from all over the country react to a band in the way that the Hmong Thai responds to the performance of Laib Laus. The audience went crazy for them and they knew every word of every song. They have so much command and influence over the people and the audeince ranged from little kids and youth to adults and elders. The lyrics are about love and life exeriences. I would say they have as much influence to tthe Hmong in Thailand as Bob Marley had in Jamaica. In America, we know who they are but it's more like only people in the know dig them. You can check thier music at:
www.myspace.com/officiallaiblaus

The Hmong youth at the Hmong international New Year are all alternative and rocked out with tattoos, piercings and crazy hair.

Rumours Travel at the speed of sound. One day I went jogging up the hills in the village and when I started at the bottom of the hill a friend asked me if I was "exercising." I said yes. When I got to the top of the hill the Hmong people that were up there told me that they found out I was exercising today. I was like wow how did you know. They said a friend told them... rumours can travel fast for Hmong people. Like anything significant that has happened in the past the rumours will travel fast around the world. Like if something crazy happened here in Minnesota the next day my friends from California will call me to ask about it, then relatives from Laos will call about it too later. Whao... we need to use it to our advantage though.

The dogs of Thailand are cool, friendly and loose all over the place without leashes. There is no fear of dogs attacking or biting people compared to how dogs are seen in America as vicious and a history of attacks to where there needs to be dog catchers and dog pounds. In Thailand dogs are scared of humans, in America humans are scared of dogs. This is from the areas that I've lived in America.

I was able to visit and meet with Hmong students from Chiang Mai University and Mission College near Bangkok. We had conversations about comparisons of Hmong college students in America and Thailand. There is a huge difference of government financial support to students in Thailand and also the Hmong students tend to blend in with the student population. The difference in America is that we look different ethnically and skin color from students from other backgrounds so if there are any issues we will be treated as such because of it. In Thailand Hmong people look Asian just like Thai people and many other Asians that attend school there so it is easier for them to blend in and people would not be aware if they were Hmong. I hope this makes sense. It is a challenge when thinking of holding onto to culture, identity and language for the Hmong in Thailand.

There were actually students from St. Olaf college in Minnesota that were doing studies in Thailand for a few months. So I met up with some of them in Chiang Mai too. Chiang Mai University is a prestigious school that is difficult to get into. Mission college is a Christian school that has students from all over the world and they had a Hmong student from France attending the school before. Most college students can speak at least some English.

The term "Hill Tribe" was thrown around which refers to tribal people that live within the mountains of Thailand and what is considered "The Golden Triangle" which include Hmong, Akha, Mien, Lahu, Liso, Karen and more. The Hill Tribe people are looked down upon as a lower class of people and blamed for opium drug trade activities in Thailand. There are people that identify as Hill Tribe that have been arrested for drug activities but not every Hill Tribe person does it and Thai born citizens have been involved with drugs too. The corrupted aspect of it is that the Thai media (newspapers, TV) portrays and highlights when Hill Tribe people are caught with drugs and cover up news where Thai people have been caught for the same thing. Media propaganda against Hmong in a negative way has happened here in the US too so I have an understanding of what's going on.



So some Hmong people may be ashamed, embarrassed or just scared to identify themselves as one of the Hill Tribe people. It can put them at a disadvantage especially at an institution and because Hmong people are already struggling just to pay for school it can make the situation worse. I feel that there is a civil rights history in America that has paved the way for Hmong people here to really take pride in our culture and identity. I told them that Hmong Americans are so proud that some of us tattoo our clan last names on our arms, back or stomach. They were all surprised and not into the tattoo thing. They asked me if Hmong women get tattoos in America because they heard a rumor about it. I said many of them have tattoos and they gasped in amazement.... whao.

Assimilation will always be an issue no matter where we are especially for nomadic people that don't have our own country.

I met with a Hmong Staff person at Chiang Mai University named Dr. Prasit Leepreecha, Researcher and CESD Coordinator at The Center for Ethnic Studies and Development Department. It was an inspiring conversation and he is an extraordinary researcher with much to say about Hmong people. He has also written a few books of his research and studied in the U.S. for his Master's Degree I believe. He is also planning on teaching at UW Madison in the near future. You can look him up at this link:
http://www.sri.cmu.ac.th/ethnic/en/index_en_about_us.php


I saw Pokemon, Harry Potter and Conan O'Brien on television dubbed in the Thai language.

My nickname in Thailand was Hmoob Mekas (Hmong American). Many people did not call me by my name just Hmoob Mekas even though there were other Hmoob Mekas in Thailand at the time. Little kids would point at me and say... "Hmoob Mekas" Even people that have never seen me before do that. Hmong people in Thailand know when they see Hmong Americans... because we are bigger in size. Let's just leave it at that. They also wear clothes that are tighter and some Hmong Americans wear baggier or looser clothing and Hmong American woman wear different types of make up.

I just wanted to state that I am back and have been sick since feeling this climate again, so I haven't been able to think and write this. I'm just getting my senses back together. People told me that the culture shock of coming back to America is worse to adjust to... they were right. I am still adjusting and my sleep patterns are all off. Honestly I don't feel I was gone long enough to miss America but... I do miss friends and family so in that sense it's good to be back. Plus I want to be here in this country to experience what happens with this Obama presidency. If Bush was still president, I would've found a way for me to stay in Thailand longer.

I'll have one more ending blog for my trip in Thailand with final thoughts.

Thanks for reading.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Hey Tou SK. Interesting Blog. I would like to hear more about how this experience has effected you...change you...etc. as a artist... I appreciate you sharing your experience and the wonderful photos of Hmong in Thai Land. I hope you felt the heat of the Hmong in Thai Land.

ntxhawm

iDIAV said...

So how did you kwv txhiaj/paj huam venturing go? I'm trying to learn at the moment as well, please feel free to share how ur going about it. ive been reading a lot and foreal the hardest part is getting all the vocab down, but i hope to be able to muaj cov lus kho kom phim peb cov hmoob meskas one day.

i.Diav